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| Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water... |
...there's something big down there, something very big... |
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| Whale sharks, up to 20m long, are the biggest fish in the sea. |
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| If you get sucked into the mouth... |
...you can always come out through the gills. |
| Fri 12th: Got up at 6am, had a cup of tea, then set off in the dinghy to look for whale sharks. Went a long way up the coast without seeing anything, then turned around. After another 10 minutes we saw a disturbance in the water and two large fins appeared. As we approached we could see that several whale sharks were together in a group. I dropped off the dinghy into the water and was surrounded by a mass of whale sharks, on either side of me and coming up from below. There were at least six, but it could have been more. I took 22 photos in a couple of minutes. |

The mouth is huge, but they only eat plankton. |
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I couldn't help but brush against them and feel their tough leathery skin. They gradually descended into deeper water and I returned to the dinghy. Went back to the Keyif for breakfast. Sunbathed for a while, then at 9:30 we went out in the dinghy again to look for whale sharks. Saw a mother and baby, but they were moving fast so did not enter the water. Later saw another on its own, also moving fast. Returned to the Keyif for coffee and biscuits. Cruised back to Djibouti in the afternoon, seeing dolphins on the way. |
| Mothers and young are often seen here. The Gulf of Tadjoura is probably a whale shark breeding area. |
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| They were very gentle creatures, effortlessly avoiding a human who suddenly dropped into their world. They would just glide past. |
Back in Addis Ababa: To mark the end of Ramadan, thousands pay homage to Johnnie Walker Red Label. |
| After a long wait in the harbour we boarded the ancient bus back to Djibouti airport. As always, checking in took ages, but then the flight left an hour early so there was no waiting time in the departure lounge. Flew to Addis Ababa via Dire Dawa. Had the usual nonsense with transit visas, then got the bus to the Ghion Hotel. It was once very grand, but is now faded elegance. Had a drink in the bar with some of the group. |
Sat 13th: Had a good breakfast, with porridge. To mark the end of Ramadan there was a huge gathering in the streets around the hotel, for prayers. Went to the hotel entrance to see the square outside filled with rows of women on prayer mats. There was a separate area for the men. Walked around the hotel gardens and swimming pool. Took a minibus to the airport. Flew via Rome to London Heathrow. Got the bus to the Holiday Inn. |
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